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Step 1 - SPRING

-Balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizers
-Pre-emergent crabgrass control
(Full-season guarantee with this application)

-Balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizer
-Broadleaf weed control

-Balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizer
-Spot weed control

-Balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizer to promote summer stress recovery
-Spot weed control

Step 5 - FALL
-Balanced, slow-release, granular fertilizer
-Broadleaf weed control

Step 6 - LATE FALL
-A heavy application of winterizer fertilizer to stimulate root growth and early spring green-up
-Spot weed control

Early spring aeration: Customers whom are either on the aeration program, premium program, or have ordered a spring aeration will receive their aeration visit between early spring and May 15.

Grub preventative and top feeding insect control. With this 1 time annual application we will guarantee to prevent grubs in your lawn all year. With this application we will also control top feeding insects. This application is done between late May and early July.

Fall aeration: Customers whom are either on the aeration program, premium program or have ordered a fall aeration will receive their aeration visit between August 15 and November 31.



Why aerate?
Compacted soil and heavy thatch are the two biggest obstacles to a beautiful lawn. They tend to suffocate grass plants by preventing air, water and nutrients from reaching the root zone. This means your lawn looks less than satisfactory in spite of adequate fertilization, water and tender loving care. Aeration opens up the thatch and helps relieve compactions. It should be a regular part of your annual lawn maintenance.

Major benefits of aeration:

• Increases air, water and nutrient movement to the root zone
• Intensifies decomposition of thatch
• Helps relieve soil compaction
• Stimulates new growth
• Improves drainage
• Increases tolerance to heat and cold
• Increases the effectiveness of applied fertilizers and control products


QUESTION: How often should I aerate?
ANSWER: This is dependant on soil and turf type. Highly compacted soils should be aerated at least once a year. Sodded lawns should be aerated twice a year spring and fall due to thatch and soil conditions.

QUESTION: What do I do with the soil plugs pulled up from aerating?
ANSWER: Nothing, this is your soil and it will break down over the next few weeks with rainfall, watering and mowing.



Why Slice seed? The lawn you depend on to enhance your home’s beauty, to give your children a place to play, to create a healthier environment needs special attention.

Throughout the years, established turf can deteriorate from the presence of weak varieties, disease, drought, insect damage, poor soil conditions or thatch build up.  Renovation can bring new life to your lawn.

What is Renovation?  Renovation replaces deteriorated turf with new, improved, better adapted grasses.  By seeding improved varieties into the existing lawn, the stand is improved without the inconvenience and greater cost of re-establishing a new lawn.

Steps for a Healthier Lawn:

1.  Eliminate undesirable vegetation.
When weeds or objectionable grass varieties exist in the lawn, vegetation control may be applied to begin renovation.  The control has no residual soil activity and will not leach into desirable vegetation.

2.  Prepare for seeding.
When vegetation control is not necessary, or 7 to 10 days following control application, vertical slicing or aerifying is necessary to penetrate the thatch and establish a seedbed.  This process allows seeds to make a direct contact with the soil and avoid seeds germinating on top of dead organic matter.  Soil pH problems may also be corrected with application of lime or sulfur.  Starter fertilizer will be applied to insure nutrient availability to the developing seedlings.

3.  Seeding.
Improved turf-type varieties will be selected to assure a uniform, healthy, disease-resistant lawn.  Only premium quality seed will be used to insure superior results.

4.  Keep soil moist.
Until seedlings are also well-established, they need moisture daily for two to three weeks.  You should understand that your part in the renovation, the daily watering, to maintain moisture at a depth of two inches, is vital.  The renovation cannot be successful without adequate moistures.

5.  Watch the grass grow.
You will see continued improvement in the lawn for four to five months following renovation.

To keep turf healthy and to prevent problems from re-occurring, you need a regular, continuous program of fertilization, watering, mowing, weed and insect control following renovation.  Our company can provide those services.

Advantages to Renovation

Reasonable cost.  Although the cost of renovation depends on the condition and size of your lawn, renovation is often the most cost-effective procedure for long-term improvement.  Ask us for an estimate. 

Minimum erosion.  Since old turf remains in place, soil erosion is minimal.

Less disruption.  Since soil is not turned over, fewer rocks and weeds will be brought to the surface.  Since new turf is protected by the old turf, light foot traffic can be supported on the area, immediately following renovation.

Healthier turf.  With the elimination of weeds and undesirable grasses and the introduction of improved turfgrass species, as well as establishment of a stronger strand of grass, your newly-renovated lawn will be healthier, and more resistant to infestations of weeds, insects and diseases.

Grub Preventative

There are several types of white grubs that feed on the roots of lawn grasses.  All of them can cause severe damage if left untreated.  


Grubs live and feed in the soil.  It's easy to miss them as they gradually cut the roots out from under your lawn until brown patches begin to appear and the grubs are finally discovered.  Pull back the turf if you suspect grubs.  If the lawn pulls up easily ( like new sod), you may find white grubs in the top inch or so of the soil.

Spring and Fall feeders
Grubs are the larval ( or worms) state of many types of beetles.  The beetles lay their eggs in your lawn, and the newly hatched worms work their way through the thatch and into the soil, where they feed on roots of grass plants.  Most beetles lay their eggs in mid to late summer, and the young grubs do their greatest damage during the fall months.

As the weather cools, most grubs burrow deeper into the soil for the winter.  They then return to the surface to feed again as the soil warms in the Spring.  After this Spring feeding, the grubs pupate into adult beetles and begin the cycle again.

Grubs don't disappear on their own.  They should be treated before damage begins to appear, or as soon as they're discovered.  When discovered early enough in the year, a preventive treatment can be applied.  When damage appears in the fall, a fast-acting curative treatment is needed.  


Surface feeding insect control is not a normal part of our lawn care program. Please call if you suspect your lawn has an insect problem and our technicians can diagnose and recommend treatment.


Disease control is not a normal part or our lawn care program. To many factors such as weather, thatch, soil compaction, soil type, moisture, and improper mowing can contribute to disease problems. Please call if you suspect your lawn has a disease and our technicians can diagnose and recommend treatments.


Leaf Spot

Description:  Scattered to general yellow, tan or reddish-brown discoloration and thinning of turf.  Individual leaves with circular to elongate purplish, dark-brown, reddish-brown, to black spots often surrounded by a yellow halo.  Centers fade to brown, tan then white.  Favored by prolonged cloudy, moist weather, moderate temperatures, lush turf growth and shady conditions.

Dollar Spot
dollar spot

Description:  Bleached spots 4-6" in diameter coalesce to form large irregular areas of sunken dead turf.  Spots have white mycelial strands in the early morning when turf is wet.  Leaf lesions more or less round, bleached white to light tan with reddish brown to purplish border, often girdling leaf to form characteristic hour-glass shape.  Moderate to warm temperatures      ( 60-80 degrees), excess humidity, moisture and thatch, nitrogen-deficient turf favor disease incidence. 

Necrotic Ring Spot
necrotic ring spot

Description:  Scattered light green patches, 2-6" diameter enlarging to form light-tan to straw-colored sunken, elongated streaks, crescents or rings up to three feet or more in diameter.  Tufts of healthy grass appear in patch center giving "frog-eye" appearance.  Favored by cool to mild temperatures, and wet then dry conditions, spring through fall, and by stressed turf due to mowing, excess thatch, compacted soils, nematode or insect damage.

Brown Patch
brown patch

Description:  Roughly circular light-brown patches up to several feet in diameter.  New, but thinned grass can eventually appear in patch center resulting in "frog-eye" appearance.  Dark purple to grayish-black "smoke ring" sometimes noticeable at perimeter.  Dark purplish green leaf spots turn light brown with straw-colored or ash-brown centers surrounded by dark border.  Promoted by high temperature (75-95 degrees), high humidity, wet soils, extended periods of moisture, excess thatch and excess nitrogen fertility.

Red Thread
red thread

Description:  Irregular shaped patches (2-15" diameter) of tan colored grass with reddish-brown cast.  Dead leaves interspersed with healthy leaves give turf ragged, scorched appearance.  Patches merge to form irregular areas of blighted turf grass.  Infected leaves shrivel and die rapidly from tip downward fading to bleached tan.  During wet weather leaves form conspicuous coral-pink, orange to red masses of branched appendages.  Favored by cool ( 65-75 degrees) prolonged damp humid weather and slow-growing nitrogen deficient turf.


  Turf reddish-brown, yellow to orange with weakened, thin appearance.  Leaves with small light-yellow flecks which enlarge and rupture to expose round, oval or elongated powdery, reddish-brown to bright orange or lemon yellow spore-filled pustules.  Powdery spores rub off easily on shoes, clothing and animals.  Conditions favoring disease include, moderate to warm temperatures ( 70-85 degrees), heavy dew, light rains, slow leaf surface drying, low fertility, low soil moisture and soil compaction.


QUESTION: How does your product work?
ANSWER: The product we use effectively takes the feeding area away from the geese by rendering the turf inedible. If they can’t eat it, they have no reason to stay.

QUESTION: Will I have to spray my entire property?
ANSWER: No, we can just spray the areas where geese are actively feeding.

QUESTION: Will I have to re-spray every time it rains?
ANSWER: No, the product we use has an active ingredient that is a very fine solid particle that is insoluble in water.

QUESTION: Do I need it re-sprayed after I cut the grass?
ANSWER: No, not normally. The product we use disrupts their feeding pattern conditioning them to move on to another side. Therefore, you’ll have good control even after the compound has been mowed off. If you’re just starting the goose control program on your property it may take a second application on frequently cut turf to give the geese enough exposure to the compound to get the conditioning effect.

QUESTION: How many applications will I need?
ANSWER: Depending on the intensity of your goose problem, it may take anywhere from 4 – 8 applications per year for complete control.

  Round Up

This service consists of 3-5 timely applications or as needed to control actively growing weeds in ornamental beds.